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Setting the Inon S-2000 with Your Camera
The S-2000 has been one of the most popular strobes in the market since it was released, in 2009 by Inon.
Setting it up is fairly simple, but you do need to understand what each setting means, and make sure it’s set up the RIGHT way, according to your camera settings. Especially that darn magnetic switch that keeps getting lost!
The first thing you need to know is what the magnetic switch does.
The Magnet Switch is the little screw and magnet that came with the strobe. It fits in the hole on the right side of the back of the strobe.
Basically, if your camera flash outputs a preflash, the magnetic switch should be REMOVED. If your camera flash does not output a pre-flash, the magnetic switch should be INSTALLED.
Preflash – Magnet Switch Removed.
No Preflash – Magnet Switch Installed.
Note – The magnet switch setting doesn’t have any effect on S-TTL Auto (strobe mode) as S-TTL Auto is designed to work with a pre-flash camera and the magnet switch setting is ignored.
What is preflash?
Preflash is a quick and weak flash, fired before the main flash, which is used to determine the amount of light needed from the main flash. You cannot notice the preflash as both of the flashes fire very fast, too fast for the human eye can distinguish between them.
A preflash is NOT the Red-Eye flash, which can be activated on most cameras. That’s a whole different flash designed to contract your pupil before the actual photo.
Option 1: TTL
- Set the S-2000 on S-TTL mode, and the power knob on B, the magnet switch has no effect here so you can either leave it in or out.
- The camera should be on manual – M mode, make sure the flash setting on the camera is on Auto.
* Note – some cameras don’t have TTL flash in Manual mode. For those cameras you need to use a semi-automatic mode like Aperture Priority. Check regarding your specific camera model. - To verify that it works, shoot the same photo with the same settings – shutter speed on 1/2000, ISO 125, changing only the aperture between f/2.8 and f/11.
- Make sure you take a photo of something rather neutral, not a white wall or black subject.
- If the exposure is the same between the two images – TTL is set up properly!
Option 2: Manual Flash Output
- Set the S-2000 on M manual mode, the power knob on the strobe can be changed to set the power – between -5.5 and full (blue labels).
- The camera should be set on manual – M mode, with the flash setting* on manual – minimum.
* On Canon cameras, to set the flash mode, press the right side of the rear control dial, then press Menu. With Sony compacts there is no manual flash, so set the flash exposure compensation to minimum. - Magnet switch depends on whether or not you can set your built-in flash manually or not.
If you can set the actual power of the built in flash manually, the magnet switch should be in.
If you can’t set the power of the flash (like in the Sony RX100), magnet switch should stay out. - This will allow complete manual control over the flash, and you can adjust the power dial on the strobe to make it brighter or darker as needed.
Set up your Inon S-2000 strobe with the Olympus TG-6 / TG-5 / TG-4 cameras
- Set the S-2000 on S-TTL mode, and the power knob on B.
- The camera should be on aperture priority – A mode, make sure the flash setting on the camera is on Fill-In.
- To verify that it works, shoot the same photo with the same settings – ISO 100, changing only the aperture between f/2 and f/8.
- Make sure you take a photo of something rather neutral, not a white wall or black subject.
- If the exposure is the same between the two images – TTL is set up properly!
- If you would like to use both “S-TTL Auto” and “Manual” on the S-2000 strobe during the same dive, make sure your magnet switch is installed. Then set the camera’s built-in flash to “manual -> 1/64” for Manual on the S-2000 and to “fill-in/TTL” for S-TTL Auto. Setting it up this way would improve battery consumption.
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24 comments
Would the Inon Z-2000 work at any speed?
I shoot macro.
I’m a newbie.
Thank you.
Hi Jun!
The S-2000 would indeed work at any speed.
However, the shutter speed limitation comes from the camera, AKA Maximum Flash Sync Speed. Mirrorless and DSLR cameras use a mechanical shutter, which limits you to 1/160s – 1/250s (depending on the camera model), when using a flash.
You can read more about it here:
http://www.housingcamera.com/blog/guides-tutorials/dslr-housings-too-expensive-for-you-here-are-some-alternatives#flashsync
I always use them in manual mode with my S95. This is the best way??
Hi Carlos!
I personally prefer using manual mode as well. TTL makes it easier for beginners to take their mind off of strobe intensity, but judging from your instagram, it looks like you’re doing a great job so no reason to switch from manual to TTL 🙂
Hi Ran, I just want to make sure I am understanding correctly. I have a canon G7X Mark II. I am trying to make sure that the strobe is working properly with my camera. Since I am just a beginner with strobes, I chose option 1 and left the magnet off (per above instructions above). I followed the instructions and chose to shoot with f4 and f9 aperture. The photos did not have the same exposure, one was brighter than the other. Am I reading the instructions correctly?
Hi Regina!
Sounds like you did the test correctly.
Did you try taking multiple photos? Depending on the subject, TTL may get it wrong occasionally.
I also suggest testing with more extreme apertures to make sure the difference is noticeable and clear if there is any.
A slight difference may still be ok and mean that TTL is more or less working.
If you’re not sure, feel free to send me the results and I’ll have a look.
Also, make sure in the menu that your internal flash is on Auto and not on Manual.
Hi. When I shoot in microscope mode with a TG5 and an Inon s-2000 set in S-TTL mode and the knob set to B, something weird happens: If I put the camera case phisically clos to the Nudi, Inon shoots the perfect light, but if I get closer to the nudi just by zooming in at the max, then the photo gets dark. It looks like Inon doesn’t shoot the at same intensity or that the camera doesn’t shoot the flash the same as without zooming in.
Hey Oscar!
Sounds like the TTL isn’t working properly. The Aperture closes down when you zoom in, which might cause the darker image.
Does it go completely black or just darker? Does the flash still fire? What mode is your built in flash on?
@Oscar – when you zoom on the TG5 while in A mode, the f-stop changes automatically. If the image is too dark, you need to change the f-stop setting by rotating the dial.
Hey, Im using a tg6. When doing the test shoots if TTL, the pictures are blown out (too bright). Am i doing anything wrong?
Hey Nigel!
Are you using the S-2000?
Do you have the magnet switch in or out?
What’s your flash setting on the camera?
Which fiber optic cable are you using?
What mode and settings on the camera?
Camera flash should be on Fill Flash. Flash compensation on 0.
Hey Ran, yes s2000, magnet switch out, fill in flash, inon fibre optic, aperture mode. Usually the exposure for the 1st few shots are perfect, then it starts to be overexposure. Anyway i was testing it on land
That is quite strange. Should work in these settings.
Do you have the power dial set on B (neutral when set on TTL)?
Hey,
I’m using a TG6 with Inon S2000. Hi think there is a mistake with the magnet…
– When using Flash in S-TTL mode and TG6 in fill-in mode, there is a pre-flash. “ACC is always off in STTL mode” as written here http://users.ncable.net.au/~anewton/inons2000.html. So magnet in or out you get exactly the same pictures ! This is a normal behavior because S-TTL need a pre-flash to calculate the exposition…
– Magnet is usefull when using S2000 in manual mode. To work with manuel flash the TG6 must be too in manual 1/64 power flash mode. In this mode there is no-pre flash. So magnet should be in. How to test ? If magnet is out , you can adjust the flash power as you want, the pictures will be the same… If magnet is in, you will get over-exposed photo with flash full power and under-exposed with flash -5,5 power.
Please try this and give me your opinion.
Best regards.
Hi, I am using a olympus e- pm 1. With the magnet switch out, I do not appear to get sufficient light, with it in, too much.
Should I be using the same settings as a tg model? I do use the fill in flash, but change up the other settings. Totally confused.
Hi, I have a e-pm1 olympus and use the fill in flash, but with the magnet switch. Without the switch, ttl does not appear to work. Now attempting to use the manual setting, but could definitely use some more pointers. Should I follow the tg steps?
Hey Marie,
It depends which mode you have your flash on. If it’s on fill, magnet switch should be out for TTL.
If it’s on manual, TTL won’t work.
Also, make sure your power knob on the flash is on the correct setting. It should be pointing up on TTL for neutral flash compensation.
Do the test described here to determine if your TTL is working properly (two shots with different apertures).
Remember that TTL doesn’t always work accurately, it depends on several variables.
Hey,
No Ran, it is wrong : in TTL mode magnet in or out is the same.
Magnet is only “read” when the flash is in manual mode. In TTL mode magnet is ignored.
On TG6 :
* Fill-In flash on TG6 = TTL mode = pre-flash = TTL on flash [Magnet in ou out (same)]
* Manual 1/64 on TG6 = Manual mode = no pre-flash = Manual mode on flash + Magnet IN
So on TG6 always leave magnet IN.
I think its same for e-pm1 but only tried on TG6
small question for Tg6 to see how i should understand ttl….
Inon s2000 strobes are on sttl
TG6 :auto iso is on, upper limit is at 400 iso, lowest shutterspeed 1/250
Zoom full in, Aperture is on 6.3 as higher does not bring more depth of field ( higher aperture is apparently made by nd filter… and not tighten diafragma…)
all my foto’s are at 400 iso.. also when i increase the ABC switch on the inon to the max A side…
Why is the TG 6 never lowering the iso?
And now a red blush question…. i presume that the optic fibre cable only gives a start signal to the Inon?
Does the intensity of the TG6 flash… per fibre cable to the Inon …change the output of the Inon?
Hi Piet,
You didn’t specify what is the flash setting on the camera. And what did you set as the minimum and maximum ISO in Auto ISO? That should be in the menu.
It’s best to set the ISO to a minimum of 100 and max of 400. The flash on the camera should be on Fill-In when the S-2000 is on S-TTL.
If it’s still not lowering ISO you can set the max ISO lower.
When set to S-TTL, the Inon is essentially mimicking the internal flash. In that case yes the power of the built-in flash controls the power of the external flash.
If you put the S-2000 on manual, then the internal flash only triggers it but doesn’t affect the output of the S-2000.
In that case you can put the TG-6 on manual flash with a low setting to save battery life and improve recycle time.
Thanks Olivier!
That’s correct.
I’ve confirmed with Inon and edited the article accordingly.
How do I activate the pre flash on the tg4?
I too would like to contribute to the discussion on inon s2000 and olympus tg6 flashes.
1. i own 2 inon s2000 flashes connected to the
tg6 with inon optical cable.
2. the flashes are set to s-ttl
3. power knob on b
3.1. the manual specifies that in this mode turning the power knob to the right reduces the light and to the left increases the light
4. the tg6 settings are: A(aperture mode), fill-in flash, iso 100, shutter speed 125, EV -2
5. IMPORTANT I used flashes both with and without the magnet
results
phase A: I used flashes without a magnet and noticed that flashes would go off from both flashes when I wasn’t shooting
phase B: I installed the magnets thinking that it was a pre-flash problem; things didn’t change, on the contrary they got worse in the sense that now both flashes don’t fire anymore.
(luckily they are under warranty)
suggestions and advice are welcome, thank you
Translated with http://www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Ran, presently in Bali and in manual iso 160, F8, shutter 120, ttyl and fill flash photos are completely dark. I can have flash and decent results in auto ISO. Is there something in my settings affecting it. Would like to shoot in manual to have some control. Any advice?