Buying Guides

Best Strobe for Underwater – The Ultimate Strobe Guide (Updated!)

The Ultimate Underwater Strobe Guide

If you landed here, it means that you are ready for the next step in underwater photography, and boy what a huge step it is!
For those who still don’t appreciate the importance of an underwater strobe for your photos, read this. To sum it up – Strobes are the reason awesome underwater photos are so awesome!

In this post we’ve summarized all the information you need to know about choosing an underwater strobe, as well as the best underwater strobe options in the market. We’ve also included info on discontinued legacy strobes, in case you find a good deal on a used strobe on eBay.

If you prefer, you can skip the technical mumbo jumbo and go straight to the underwater strobe options.

* We regularly update this article to include every new strobe in the market! The last update was on Dec 2022.

Before Choosing a Strobe

Prior to choosing a specific strobe (or two) out of the many options out there, the first thing you need to ask yourself is which camera & housing you are using.

The type of camera, housing, trigger options will narrow down the options for a strobe due to compatibility issues and allow you to find your strobe easily. For example – Ikelite TTL strobes can only be used on TTL with Ikelite TTL housings. (As of recently, new Aquatica housings as well).

Another thing you should ask yourself is what do you intend to shoot. You might need more power to light up wide angle shots from a distance, or 2 strobes if you are shooting fisheye and want to get full coverage. If you plan on shooting wrecks, you may want to place your strobes inside the wreck and trigger them as slaves. All theses are things to consider…

Of course, another important consideration is budget. There are strobes ranging from $99 to $1200. You may not necessarily need the best out there, but rather the best FOR YOU.

Last thing to consider is whether you will be wanting to shoot video.  A video light can be used for photography but a strobe cannot be used for video.  If you plan on shooting at least 20-30% video, I would suggest looking at our underwater video lights guide.

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Terminology

Before we start going through the options, lets go over some basic terms to help you better understand the features of each strobe. (Already familiar with these terms? Skip to strobe options)

Strobe or Flash

Lets get this off the table – Strobe = Flash! These two terms mean exactly the same and they are words that define an electronic unit which emits a large amount of light in a very short amount of time. For some reason the term “strobe” has been used more for underwater flash units and studio units because it sounds fancier, while the word flash is reserved for the camera’s internal flash and for external hot-shoe flash units. We will use the term “Strobe” for the underwater flash unit and “Internal/On-Camera/Pop-up Flash” for the on-camera flash unit.

Guide Number

The Guide Number (sometimes noted as GN) is quite simply the power output of the strobe. The higher the number – the stronger the strobe. It is defined as GN = Subject Distance from Flash Source x f/Stop which achieves good exposure on the subject, and is usually measured at ISO 100, on land.

That can be slightly confusing but if you think about it for a bit, it makes sense. To measure it, the manufacturer would set the ISO to 100, put a subject at a known distance (10ft for example) and change the aperture until the subject is well lit (Let’s say f/11). Then he will multiply the f/stop by distance to get 10×11 = 110 GN [feet] = 33 GN [meter].

Note that guide numbers can be measured in Meters or in Feet, so make sure you have the same units when comparing two strobes.

Underwater there is no real way of determining GN since the visibility changes significantly which directly affects the reach of the strobe.

Powerful strobes are important for getting full coverage on wide angle shots like this one
Powerful strobes are important for getting full coverage on wide angle shots like this one

Beam Angle

This is quite simple – the spread of light emitted from the strobe. Usually 80-120 degrees in a circular / oval pattern, and increases by 10-40 degrees when using a diffuser.

Color Temperature

Measured in Kelvin and similar to the numbers you know from WB or from light bulbs. Underwater strobes vary between 4300K and 5600K while most are around 5400K-5500K. The important and confusing thing to understand here is that this will basically determine the color of the element which are not lit by the strobe (?!?). Why is that? Because white balance will most likely be adjusted (either manually or automatically) according to the lit subjects to show them in the most natural way, but because WB affects the whole frame, the unlit elements in the background will vary in color according to the adjustment made (the strobe used), while the lit subjects would be the same.

Confused? Don’t worry about it. Most photographers don’t really pay attention to this and still get amazing photos 🙂

For more advanced shooters who want to experiment with this, try putting blue or orange gels on your strobe to change the hue of the background. Ask me about this if you want to learn more!

Recycle Time / Rate

This is one of the most important features. It determines how fast the strobe regenerates for a second shot. It will be measured in seconds and assume full power output was used.

If you don’t want to meet a shark up close and get one well-lit photo among 5-7 dark ones, pay attention to the recycle time!

Naturally when using a lower output, every strobe will recycle faster. Another thing to consider is that when triggering optically, you are limited by your internal flash recycle rate which is usually slower than the strobe at full power.

Helpful Tip:
Use the strobe on manual and trigger it using the lowest setting on the internal flash to enjoy better recycle rates.

Target / Focus Light

This feature which either exist or doesn’t exist in strobes, can come in very handy. It’s basically a low power LED light which helps you to see where the strobe is pointing at, helps the camera focus and can even be used as a secondary dive light at night. It will usually go off when the strobe fires to avoid modifying the final lighting in the image.

Strobe positioning determines if the subject is in the light or completely dark.
Strobe positioning determines if the subject is in the light or completely dark.

Triggering

Every strobe needs a trigger. A method to signal the strobe that it should go off at that moment.

Generally there are two types of triggers – Electrical or Optical. It’s important to understand that one is not better than the other. There are pros and cons to each method.

Electrical Triggering

Electrical triggering requires and actual hard-wired connection between the strobe and the camera, in which an electrical signal can transfer. This causes two major limitations:

1. The camera must have a hot-shoe. Most compacts don’t.

2. Two additional O-rings are needed to keep the connectors dry – thus creating more risk of flooding.

However, this method is great for saving battery life on your camera, since the internal strobe does not need to operate and it also means you can get very accurate exposure using true TTL. This method is mainly used for DSLR’s or high-end compacts in Ikelite & Aquatica TTL housings.

Optical Triggering

There are three types of optical triggering:

1. Slave trigger – where the sensor receives a signal from the surroundings and fires according to that.

2. Fiber optic cable  through the internal flash– the sensor is “fed” directly with a focused beam of light through a fiber optic cable which transfers light from the master flash.

Fiber optics is the most preferred method between the two, since it is clean, accurate and reliable.

Optical triggering – Cons:

1. Wasting battery life by firing the on-camera flash just as a trigger.

2. Slower recycle time limited by the internal flash.

Optical triggering – Pros:

1. Simple mechanism, no additional openings in the housing – less risk of flood, easier to fix if there is a malfunction.

2. Works reliably cross-brand. Light is light so the strobes don’t really care which housing/camera you use. (aside from different methods of pre-flash, which are mostly taken care of on the strobe).

Using a slave trigger without a fiber optic cable results in the internal flash being part of the lighting sources, which creates backscatter and uneven lighting. It is also less reliable and may fail to fire under certain conditions.
3. Fiber optic cable through an electronic optical trigger

Some cameras do not have an internal flash.  In fact most new high end mirrorless or DSLR cameras do not have such a flash.. You would think that in such a case an electrical 5 pin Nikonos connection is the only way but thats not true.  You now have the option to buy a little electronic device called an optical trigger.  Some housings come with it preinstalled (Aquatica and Nauticam).  Others don’t even support it (Ikelite).  The optical trigger connects electronically to the cameras hot shoe, the camera “thinks” its an external flash where in fact all that it does is light up LED’s that connect to the strobes using fiber optic cables and trigger them.

This is great cause its saves on battery life (the camera does not need to fire a flash) and it does not required any electronic sync cords but only a small fiberoptic window in the housing that allows for this small amount of light to go through to the fiber optic cable.  Some of these triggers support TTL and others are manual only.  More details on TTL is explained in this article.

Note that most underwater housings use a universal “Sea and Sea” style fiber optic connection.  One exception to that is Nauticam which use a dedicated connection but only on their DSLR line.


Strobe Options (Updated Jun 2023)

Inon S-220

Just announced! June 29 2023

MSRP: US$449

The Good:

  • Ultra compact.
  • Reliable TTL.
  • Double O-ring protection.
  • Wide beam angle

The Bad:

  • Could be more powerful
  • No Modeling light

The Good-To-Know:

  • The Inon S220 features a unique mirror adapter which improves the reception of the slave sensor significantly making it more reliable when used without a fiber optic cable.
  • Mounts are not included. You need to get them separately.
  • The S-220 is a direct competitor with the YS-01 Solis. Advantages of the S-220 are smaller size, sturdy build, slighly more powerful and more accurate TTL.
GET IT HERE

Inon S-2000

An incredible strobe, perhaps the most successful ever.  As of Dec 2022 it is discontinued due to shortage of electronic chips.  A successor is expected sometime in 2023.

Inon S-2000 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$479

The Good:

  • Ultra compact.
  • Reliable TTL.

The Bad:

  • Small and confusing controls.
  • Special connector needed.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The Inon S2000 features a unique mirror adapter which improves the reception of the slave sensor significantly making it more reliable when used without a fiber optic cable.
  • Inon offers snoots which fit the S2000 for creative lighting options.
  • Mounts are not included. You need to get them separately.
  • The S2000 is a direct competitor with the YS-01. Advantages of the S2000 are smaller size, snoot options, sturdy build.
GET IT HERE

Inon Z-240

MSRP: US$799

Discontinued as of July 2017 and replaced with the Z-330! See below.

Inon Z-240 Underwater Strobe

The Good:

  • Even circular beam thanks to dual flash bulbs.
  • Built-in focus light.

The Bad:

  • Heavy and bulky.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Mounts are not included. You need to get them separately.
MORE INFO

Inon Z-330 and Z-330 II

An incredible strobe, perhaps the most successful ever in its category.  As of Dec 2022 it is discontinued due to shortage of electronic chips.  A successor is expected sometime in 2023.

MSRP: US$699Inon Z-330 Underwater Strobe

The Good:

  • Even 110 degree circular beam thanks to dual flash bulbs.
  • Built-in focus light.
  • Strongest strobe in the market – GN33.

The Bad:

  • Heavy and bulky.
  • Mount required, not included.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The Z-330 includes a great rotating light shade to prevent backscatter even when the strobe is closer to the camera.
  • Unique warm dome diffusers available (not included) for creative lighting options.
MORE INFO

Inon D-2000

MSRP: US$669

Discontinued as of October 2017 and replaced with D-200, see below …

Inon D2000 Underwater Strobe

The Good:

  • Even circular beam thanks to dual flash bulbs.
  • Built-in focus light.

The Bad:

  • No Sync Cord connection.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Basically the same strobe as the Z-240, but triggers optically only and slightly weaker output.
  • Mounts are not included. You need to get them separately.
MORE INFO

Inon D-200

MSRP: US$500
Inon D-200 Underwater Strobe

The Good:

  • Even circular beam thanks to dual flash bulbs.
  • Built-in focus light.
  • Dome lens produces 110 degree beam without a diffuser.

The Bad:

  • Heavy and bulky.
  • Mount required, not included.
  • Fiber optic only, unlike Z-330.
  • Guide Number 20 (You would expect more from such a large body)

The Good-To-Know:

  • The D-200 includes a great rotating light shade to prevent backscatter even when the strobe is closer to the camera.
  • Unique warm dome diffusers available (not included) for creative lighting options.
MORE INFO

Sea & Sea YS-01 (Now called YS-01 Solis

Sea & Sea YS-01 Solis Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$489.95

UPDATE 2020: YS-01 replaced with YS-01 Solis. Main changes are upgrade to DS-TTL II, redesign and improved performance.

The Good:

  • Most popular strobe in the market.
  • Strong and affordable.
  • Built-in target light.
  • Has both TTL and manual controls.
  • Guide Number 20

The Bad:

  • Larger than the S2000.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The YS-01 is a direct competitor for the S2000. See the comparison between them HERE. Advantages on the S2000 – simpler controls, target light.
GET IT HERE

Sea & Sea YS-03 (Now called YS-03 Solis)

Sea & Sea YS-03 Solis Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$479.95 (Full package including tray, arm, cable & strobe)

UPDATE 2020: YS-03 replaced with YS-03 Solis. Main changes are upgrade to DS-TTL II, redesign and improved performance. The bundle includes an improved tray and arm.

The Good:

  • Very affordable. Same light output as the YS-01 but about $80 less and comes with a tray, flex arm and fiber optic cable!
  • Very reliable TTL mechanism. Perfect light output with every shot. Compatible with the Olympus TG-6 (was not compatible before)

The Bad:

  • TTL only. No manual settings.
  • No built in target light.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The fully automatic YS-03 replaced the fully manual YS-02. Apparently people prefer setting the strobe on Auto.
  • In 2020 the YS-03 Solis replaced the original YS-03.
GET IT HERE

Sea & Sea YS-D1

Sea & Sea YS-D1 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$699.95

Discontinued as of July 2015 and replaced with the YS-D2! See below.

The Good:

  • Strong power output.
  • Great battery life.
  • Exposure compensation on TTL.
  • Built in target light.

The Bad:

  • Heavier and bulkier than the YS-01.

The Good-To-Know:

  • You can get this cool strobe cover for your YS-D1 to protect it (and make it look a lot cooler!).
  • This is the most popular strobe for DSLR users underwater.
MORE INFO

Sea & Sea YS-D2J

Discontinued and replace with YS-D3 below

Sea & Sea YS-D2 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$689.95

The Good:

  • Strong power output.
  • Great battery life.
  • Exposure compensation on TTL.
  • Built in dual powered target light with option for red filter.
  • New and improved controls preventing accidental mode switching,

The Bad:

  • Heavier and bulkier than the YS-01.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The same cool strobe cover fits the YS-D2 as well!
  • This has replaced the YS-D1 as the most popular strobe for DSLR users underwater.
GET IT HERE

Sea & Sea YS-D3

Sea & Sea YS-D3 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$849.95

The Good:

  • Strong power output – 33GN.
  • Lightning fast recycle time.
  • Exposure compensation on TTL.
  • Extra wide beam angle – 120 deg.
  • Strong built in 1000 lumen light
  • Easy to mount accessories such as diffuser / snoot.

The Bad:

  • Heavier, bulkier and pricier than the YS-01.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The YS-D3 can fire before recycling completely, so that you get at least some light instead of nothing at all when firing rapidly.
  • The built-in LED light is so powerful, you can easily use it as a dive light!
GET IT HERE

Sea & Sea YS-250Pro

The YS-250Pro has been discontinued! No successor is expected.

Sea & Sea YS-250PRO Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$1069.95

The Good:

  • Lighting fast recycle time.
  • Strong even beam.
  • Strong built-in target light.

The Bad:

  • Very heavy and bulky.
  • No optical TTL. If triggered optically – manual settings only.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The YS-250PRO has an audible signal indicating when the strobe is ready to fire again, so you can concentrate on your subject without lifting your head.
MORE INFO

Ikelite AF35

Ikelite AF35 Underwater Strobe

The Ikelite AF35 has been discontinued!

MSRP: US$429.95 (Includes tray & arm)

The Good:

  • Very affordable. Works with every camera that has a flash.
  • No need for fiber optic cable.
  • Package includes everything needed – tray, arm, sensor and strobe.

The Bad:

  • Works as an optical slave only. Camera flash interferes in shot and creates backscatter.
  • Slower recycle time.
  • You can’t choose which tray & arm to use.
  • Rather narrow beam angle (80 deg or 90 with diffuser).

The Good-To-Know:

  • The AF35 is one of the easiest strobes you can get. Simply place your camera on the tray and start shooting. Great for people who don’t want to mess around with too many parts.
GET IT HERE

Ikelite DS51 II

  • Upgraded to DS51 II in 2022

MSRP: US$495.95

The Good:

  • Ikelite’s most affordable DS Strobe.
  • Provides perfect True TTL on a variety of housings, not just Ikelite, using DS Link TTL Converters.
  • Very compact and lightweight

The Bad:

  • Very Slow recycle time. (3.5s)
  • No optical TTL, except for some Olympus and Panasonic models using the RC1 TTL Receiver.
  • Narrow beam angle (70 deg or 80 with diffuser).
  • Only a few manual output steps.

The Good-To-Know:

GET IT HERE

Ikelite DS160 II

  • Upgraded to DS160 II in 2022

Ikelite DS-160 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$995

The Good:

  • Very strong output.
  • Warmer color output than most strobes.
  • Amazing fast recycle time thanks to professional grade rechargeable battery pack.
  • Provides perfect True TTL on a variety of housings, not just Ikelite, using DS Link TTL Converters. (1 second)
  • Built-in modeling light.

The Bad:

  • Expensive.
  • Heavy & bulky.
  • TTL requires additional converter – DS Link TTL.
  • Unique battery – if it’s not charged then no alternative.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The DS160 is the choice of many professionals mainly due to the fast recycle time, reliability and warm color temperature.
  • Best when used with Li-Ion batteries, which improve recycle rate and life span. Li-Ion batteries no longer available.
  • Optical TTL is possible with some Olympus and Panasonic models using the RC1 TTL Receiver.
GET IT HERE

Ikelite DS161

Discontinued in 2022 , replaced with DS230

Ikelite DS-161 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$949

The Good: (Almost identical to DS160)

  • Very strong output.
  • Warmer color output than most strobes.
  • Amazing fast recycle time thanks to professional grade rechargeable battery pack.
  • Provides perfect True TTL on a variety of housings, not just Ikelite, using DS Link TTL Converters.
  • Built-in 500 Lumen LED Video light.

The Bad: (Almost identical to DS160)

  • Expensive.
  • Heavy & bulky.
  • TTL requires additional converter – DS Link TTL.
  • Unique battery – if it’s not charged then no alternative.
  • LED Light is nice but not actually strong enough for most videos other than real close-ups and macro.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The DS161 is exactly the same as the DS160 but with the LED light. Most photographers prefer getting this one since it’s only $150 extra and you get a 500 lumen light included.
  • Best when used with Li-Ion batteries, which improve recycle rate and life span. Li-Ion batteries no longer available.
  • Optical TTL is possible with some Olympus and Panasonic models using the RC1 TTL Receiver.
GET IT HERE

Ikelite DS230

MSRP: US$1295

Comes in two versions: With a modeling  ($1,295) or video light  ($1,495)Ikelite DS230

The Good: (based on the famous DS160)

  • Very strong output.
  • Warmer color output than most strobes.
  • Amazing fast recycle time thanks to professional grade rechargeable battery pack.
  • Provides perfect True TTL on a variety of housings, not just Ikelite, using DS Link TTL Converters.
  • Built-in 500 Lumen or 2000 lumen LED Video light.

The Bad: (Almost identical to DS160)

  • Expensive.
  • Heavy & bulky.
  • TTL requires additional converter – DS Link TTL.
  • Unique battery – if it’s not charged then no alternative.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Optical TTL is possible with some Olympus and Panasonic models using the RC1 TTL Receiver.
GET IT HERE

Kraken KR-S02 Strobe

Kraken KR-S02 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$599.95

The Good:

  • Strong output – 24 GN.
  • Incredible battery life – over 700 cycles on full power.
  • LCD screen that can flip as needed.
  • Very fast recycle time – 1.5s.
  • Threaded bezel allows easy installation of accessories such as snoot, dome, filters etc.

The Bad:

  • Fully manual. No TTL or auto mode.
  • Fiber optic only. Can’t be used with a sync cord.

The Good-To-Know:

  • The KR-S02 ships with a nice padded case and includes knob extensions for those using gloves.
  • If you have the Kraken Hydra 5000S+, this strobe uses the exact same battery!
  • YS and Ball mount included.
GET IT HERE

I-Torch Symbiosis

I-Torch Symbiosis Underwater video light / Strobe

The I-Torch Symbiosis has been DISCONTINUED!

MSRP: US$499.95 ($699.95 for Pro model)

The Good:

  • Two in one! Powerful video light and strobe.
  • Fiber optic triggering.
  • Auto off feature on video light when strobe fires.
  • Great battery life – up to 700 flashes on full power or 1hr of video light.
  • Fast recycle time – 2s.

The Bad:

  • Bulky and heavy.
  • No “real” TTL. Semi-Auto mode works rather well though.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Check out the SS-2 model – it’s stronger, and has a neat LCD panel on the back which makes it much easier to set up and control.
  • The video light can be upgraded to 4000 lumens! This model includes the SS-2 with 4K lumens.
  • Semi-Auto mode works by “learning” the correct power after setting it up once on a subject, then changing strobe power according to distance from the subjects using a proximity sensor. This works great and includes two modes – one for macro and one for wide angle.
GET IT HERE

I-Torch Symbiosis SS-3

The I-Torch Symbiosis has been DISCONTINUED!

Symbiosis SS-3 Underwater Strobe / video light

MSRP: US$399.95

The Good:

  • Two in one! Powerful video light and strobe.
  • Fiber optic triggering.
  • Auto off feature on video light when strobe fires.
  • Great battery life – up to 700 flashes on full power or 1hr of video light.
  • Much more compact than previous symbiosis models.
  • Fast recycle time – 2s.

The Bad:

  • GN of 20 and lumen rating of 2800, is fairly lower compared to other options in the market.
  • No “real” TTL. “TTL Training” mode works rather well though.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Semi-Auto mode works by “learning” the correct power after setting it up once on a subject, then changing strobe power according to distance from the subjects using a proximity sensor. This works great and includes two modes – one for macro and one for wide angle.
GET IT HERE

Weefine WFS07

 

MSRP: US$599.95

The Good:

  • Two in one! Powerful video light and strobe.
  • Fiber optic triggering.
  • Auto off feature on video light when strobe fires.
  • Great battery life – up to 700 flashes on full power or 1hr of video light.
  • CRI 90 for the video light which means accurate colors.
  • Very compact
  • Very ide 140 degree beam angle
  • Works on 18650 Lithium rechargable batteries

The Bad:

  • GN of 22 and lumen rating of 3000, is fairly lower compared to other options in the market.
  • No TTL.
GET IT HERE

Backscatter MF-2

Upgraded to MF-2 in 2022

MSRP: US$399

The Good:

  • Very small – Designed for macro photography!
  • Works seamlessly with a snoot. (Snoot bundle available).
  • Capable of up to 1400 flashes on a single charge.
  • NEW: Built-In 1000 Lumen Focus Light
  • NEW: Automatic TTL For Olympus Cameras
  • NEW: Wireless Remote Control
  • NEW: High-Speed Sync
  • NEW: Test Mode & Beacon
  • NEW: Faster Recycle Time
  • NEW: Bigger Battery, Longer Run Time
  • Manual Control For All Cameras
  • Double O-Ring Seal For Reliability

The Bad:

  • Not very strong – 16GN.
  • Dedicate for macro, so not ideal for wide angle.
  • Battery & Charger Not Included

The Good-To-Know:

  • This strobe is often sold as a bundle with an optical snoot.
  • The two LED lights ensure easy aiming with the snoot attached.
GET IT HERE

 


Retra FlashRetra Underwater Strobe

The original Retra Flash has been discontinued and replaced with the new Retra Flash Prime and Retra Flash Pro (below).

MSRP: US$840

The Good:

  • Powerful output – 30GN
  • Fiber optic and sync cord triggering.
  • Choice between S&S 5 pin, S6, N5 and Ikelite 5 pin connectors.
  • Optical connector compatible with both Inon and Sea & Sea.
  • Fast recycle time – 1.7s
  • Faster recycle time – 0.8s with additional battery compartment (sold separate)
  • Rated down to 100m / 330ft!
  • Plenty of cool accessories available.

The Bad:

  • Bulky and heavy.
  • New in the market.
  • Pricier than other strobes.

The Good-To-Know:

  • You can get the additional battery compartment, to pack 8 batteries at a time, for faster recycle time (0.8s) and more flash cycles per charge.
  • Sophisticated snoot available – LSD Ultimate, for creative lighting options.
  • World renowned UW photographer Alex Mustard was involved in the early stages of production and highly recommends it.

Retra Flash PrimeRetra Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$865

The Good:

  • Powerful output – 30GN / 100Ws
  • Fiber optic and sync cord triggering. (electric connector not included)
  • Choice between S&S 5 pin, S6, N5 and Ikelite 5 pin connectors.
  • Optical connector compatible with both Inon and Sea & Sea.
  • Fast recycle time – 1.7s
  • Rated down to 100m / 330ft!
  • Plenty of cool accessories available.
  • Leak detector included.

The Bad:

  • Bulky and heavy.
  • Fairly new in the market.
  • Pricier than other strobes.
  • Sync cord connector not included ($110 extra).
  • No TTL via sync cord.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Sophisticated snoot available – LSD Ultimate, for creative lighting options.
  • World renowned UW photographer Alex Mustard was involved in the early stages of production and highly recommends it.

Retra Flash PRORetra Underwater Strobe

MSRP: US$970

The Good:

  • Powerful output – 150Ws
  • Fiber optic and sync cord triggering. (electric connector not included)
  • Choice between S&S 5 pin, S6, N5 and Ikelite 5 pin connectors.
  • Optical connector compatible with both Inon and Sea & Sea.
  • Rated down to 100m / 330ft!
  • Plenty of cool accessories available.
  • Leak detector included.
  • Stronger modeling light – 500 lumens at 20 degree beam.

The Bad:

  • Bulky and heavy.
  • Fairly new in the market.
  • Pricier than other strobes.
  • Sync cord connector not included ($110 extra).
  • No TTL via sync cord.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Sophisticated snoot available – LSD Ultimate, for creative lighting options.
  • World renowned UW photographer Alex Mustard was involved in the early stages of production and highly recommends it.

Sealife Sea Dragon

Sealife Sea Dragon Flash Underwater Strobe

MSRP: $399.95 (Includes tray & grip)

The Good:

  • Sleek design.
  • Compatible with the versatile Sealife Flex-Connect arm system.
  • Affordable

The Bad:

  • Very slow recycle time (5 sec on full power)
  • Using with the tray included without additional arm segments might create backscatter.
  • Inefficient power usage (150 flashes per charge)

The Good-To-Know:

  • The Flex-Connect arm system is incredibly fun and easy to use. You can mix and match all Sealife gear with them and easily disassemble for travel.
  • The package also includes a nifty travel case.
GET IT HERE

Fantasea Nano Flash / Intova PX-21

Fantasea Nano Flash cheap Underwater Strobe

MSRP: $119.95

DISCONTINUED

The Good:

  • Tiny compact flash unit.
  • Very affordable.
  • Works with almost every camera.

The Bad:

  • Weak.
  • Only 3 power levels (min, med, max)
  • Enclosed in waterproof case – Danger of flooding.

The Good-To-Know:

  • This is basically similar to your on-camera flash, but off-camera. You won’t get much power here but you will get better lighting since you can place it on the side of your camera and prevent backscatter while getting more flattering lighting on you subject.
MORE INFO

Olympus UFL-3

Olympus UFL-3 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: $499.99

The Good:

  • See YS-01. This is basically a rebranded version of that strobe.
  • Compatible with Olympus Wireless RC flash system which allows higher sync speeds with Olympus cameras.

The Bad:

  • See YS-01. This is basically a rebranded version of that strobe.
  • More expensive than the YS-01.

The Good-To-Know:

  • If you don’t have an Olympus camera, just get the YS-01. If you do, consider getting this one.
GET IT HERE

UltraMax UXDS-3

Ultramax USDS-3 Underwater Strobe

MSRP: $349.95 (With tray, arm, cable and travel bag)

The Good:

  • Very affordable.
  • Easy to use.
  • Battery chamber is permanently isolated from electronics.
  • Compatible with all camera models.

The Bad:

  • Heavy.
  • Few power modes.
  • Slow recycle time.

The Good-To-Know:

  • Simple and useful workhorse.
GET IT HERE

That’s it. If you still need more info and you’re struggling to decide which strobe to get, simply Contact Us and we will gladly help you out!

News and Updates:

Aug 2015 – YS-D2 replaces the YS-D1!

Oct 2015 – As of now, you can get true TTL with Ikelite strobes (DS51/DS160/DS161) on Aquatica housings as well, either using an Ikelite 4301 or 4302 TTL converter for Nikon or the internal Ikelite TTL circuitry on Canon housing (Aquatica A7D Mk II and A5Dsr housing).

July 2016 – I-Torch Symbiosis released!

Sep 2016 – New Ikelite strobe packages available!

Aug 2017 – Retra strobe released!

Oct 2017 – YS-D2J replaces the YS-D2!

Jan 2018 – Inon Z-330 is here! Replaces Inon Z-240.

Sep 2018 – Inon D-200 released.

Nov 2019 – Backscatter MF-1 released.

Dec 2019 – Kraken KR-S02 Strobe released.

Jan 2020 – YS-01 Solis / YS-03 Solis / YS-D3 released.

Dec 2022 – MF2 added/ DS230 / DS160 II / DS51 II

Jun 2023 – Inon S-220 / Weefine WFS07 Added

Ran Mor
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22 comments

  1. Andrea April 12, 2015

    The UFL-3 unfortunately will not do the High Sync FP mode like the UFL-2.

  2. martin October 1, 2015

    Ikelite DR 160/161 are awesome strobes but we have found the battery packs to be very temperamental and expensive to replace.

  3. Donald C.A Watson May 30, 2016

    I thought the article with the data was very well constructed and should help any diver plan their underwater photo equipment purchase, it was a refresher for me which I appreciated.
    I started in underwater photography in the early 1960’s with a Nemod Siluro u/w camera, simple and primitive but capable of producing good pics. I replace the single flash with a twin arm with the reflectors about 50cm away from the body. Later I replaced the flash bulbs with Metz electronic flashes built into a perspex housing that made.

    After that it was a Nikonos with a Subsea Flash for use in the North Sea. The trouble was the depth we were working at exceeded the operational depth of the systems. This was overcome by opening them up to the atmospheric pressure of the Bell and the re-assembling before going
    outside. Of course we repeated the procedure when we returned to the Bell, after winding the film back into the cassette, of course the spent hours in the Recompression Chamber.

  4. Lalit November 4, 2017

    Hi, I am buying a nauticam housing for Sony RX100 V, my intent is to do both still and video, request your suggestions

  5. Avatar photo
    Tal Mor November 4, 2017

    Hi Lalit, There are a few options. The best one would probably be getting one powerful strobe like the Sea and Sea YS-D2J and another powerful video light like the Kraken 3500 or 5000. Another option would be to use the Itorch Symbiosis which combines a strobe and video light in one. Feel free to contact us by email for a more detailed consultation. mozaik at housingcamera.com

  6. Nathan Lucas June 13, 2018

    Any recommendations for the Sony a7iii or A7riii I’m a nauticam housing? I’ve been told i can’t use ttl with that camera. Fast recycle is key I’d love great power if i can, a diffusing option for soft light and i take all my shots freediving so low profile would be ideal. So many things on the market and I’d really like ttl if i can get it. Hss would rock too but i don’t think they make that for uw strobes.

  7. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor June 14, 2018

    Hi Nathan,

    For the Nauticam A7III / A7RIII, you should be able to use the TRT Electronics s-TURTLE TTL trigger to get TTL with strobes like the Inon S-2000, Z330 or the S&S YS-D2.
    HSS doesn’t really work with underwater strobes.

  8. Benny Brimer November 5, 2018

    Are there any strobes with video light that support TTL for Nauticam housing for Sony a6500?

  9. Avatar photo
    Tal Mor November 5, 2018

    Hi Benny,

    Unfortunately not. You can combine a small video light with a strobe, that will be the best solution. Contact us over email for some recommendations: mozaik @ housingcamera.com

    Regards, Tal

  10. Hugo Leon Alvan June 16, 2019

    Hello,
    I currently have Sony RX100 v with Nauticam housing and Bigblue Black Molly III lights, what strobes would you recommend for photo and video?

  11. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor June 24, 2019

    Hey Hugo!

    The Inon D-200 would be a perfect choice for you. They are very reliable, have a nice and wide beam and have excellent TTL.
    That would be for photos. For video, you can continue using your black molly, or upgrade to a stronger Big Blue light like the VL4200.

  12. Alan Erdman February 6, 2020

    Hi, Great Article…Thanks for doing all the research.
    I have a Sony A6000 and a LiquidEye water housing that I use for surf photography. What strobe would you recommend for this set-up?

  13. Pierre-Bernard February 7, 2020

    For your information, the retra flash you are prsenting is the old one. They have a new Retra model that overtakes the previous one and most of the existing one in terms of size, power, price and light quality.

  14. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor February 7, 2020

    Thanks, will update it asap!

  15. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor February 7, 2020

    Glad you enjoyed it Alan!

    The LiquidEye housings aren’t set up for using a strobe.
    You could mount an LED video light with a tray and arm system.
    For triggering a strobe, only if you are able to pop up the built-in flash, you might be able to jerry-rig something to work through the backplate with a fiber optic cable.

  16. Alvin Lim October 28, 2020

    Hi,
    I currently have Sony A6400 with Seafrogs a6xxxsaltedline housing, what strobes would you recommend, I’m actually looking at the Inon s-2000, is that compatible would it be a good choice?

  17. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor October 30, 2020

    Yes, the S-2000 would be an excellent choice!
    It’s a very compact and very reliable strobe.
    Another option is the S&S YS-01 or YS-03. The YS-01 is comparable to the S-2000 and the YS-03 is fully automatic if you’re looking for the quickest and easiest lighting solution.

  18. BENJAMIN Chiah November 29, 2020

    My camera is Sony A6400, with Fantasea housing with 16-50mm lens, I use Backscatter MF-1 miniflash, quite good for macro photo and lightweight for traveling. I might look for 2nd strobe for wide and bigger object.

  19. Avatar photo
    Ran Mor December 2, 2020

    Hey Benjamin,

    The Inon Z-330 is the top choice these days. It has a very wide angle beam and among the strongest outputs in the market – 33GN.
    It will play nicely with your MF-1 which you can use as a fill flash when using both together.
    A strong strobe is crucial with the A6400 because of the 1/160s max flash sync speed.
    More about that here: https://www.housingcamera.com/blog/knowledge-base/what-is-maximum-flash-sync-speed

  20. Jeon min seok August 4, 2021

    For snoot shooting, ys-d3 is the most useful.
    Because it has the strongest target light of any strobe to date.
    I currently have a ‘Retla lsd’ and the target light teaches the subject well during the day.

  21. Oleksandr September 15, 2021

    Hi,
    Most of my shots I take freediving and use TTL almost always.
    My first UW strobe was YS-03, which I bought in April 2019. It was an incredible new experience in underwater photography for me, but after half a year of operation it gone to circuit protection mode (blinking red and green). I am from Ukraine and it was unreal to fix this problem because there are no “S&S” service centers here.
    Therefore, in July 2020 I bought new one “YS-03 Solis” (it would be fair to point out that you advised me to buy S-2000). Using YS-03 Solid together with Sony RX100 VII in Solted-Line housing the great photos were obtain. And again after one year of operation, the strobe broke and half of my August trip was ruined (flash intensity is not controlled by the camera, the flash always produces the maximum flash depending on how much it has been charged since the previous shot).
    I don’t understand the reason for my misfortunes – is it just an accident or is there a real problem with YS-03 ? And thе main question is – could you advise me what strobe to buy now?

  22. Wetspot Stu March 2, 2022

    Regarding Martin’s comment about about Ikelite strobe batteries, being temperamental. I’ve been using 161s for many years and have literally 10’s of thousands of exposures on them, and they’ve NEVER missed a shot. He should send them in for servicing because something isn’t right!

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